RTW details that drive fashion sales: Alaïa SS25 example
- Maryna B
- Mar 17
- 3 min read
I fell for Maison Alaïa SS25 the moment I saw it on the runway. A few days ago, I took a closer look at the collection in-store.
Here are a few non-obvious observations.
1. Runway collections need to be adapted for real life
While the artistic vision of a runway collection is exciting, it must be adapted for real-life wear. Alaïa SS25 leans heavily on sheer fabrics. There is certainly a niche demand for transparency, usually trend-driven. But apart from a few statement items, the pieces shouldn’t leave the buyer struggling to make them wearable.
Take the peach dress (£3,200)—its bodice could benefit from a double-layered fabric, while the skirt could include a short slip, either attached or separate—similar to Zimmermann, which often adds matching slips to sheer tops and dresses.
Likewise, trousers priced at £2,100 should come with built-in shorts or lining. At this price point, expecting customers to invest in additional layers just to make them wearable seems unreasonable.
But a completely see-through navy knit skirt for £1,100? That’s a hard no.
For comparison, Hermès also offers sheer tops and trousers in its current collection, but all come with built-in bra tops and shorts (checked in the boutique).
2. Logo enhancement & Style considerations
The collection includes top-and-brief sets in four colors, priced at £800—a logical and strategic addition, especially since they were featured on the runway (though there, tops and bottoms were mixed in different shades).
However:
1) A boyshort style would be more versatile. Let’s be honest—how many women feel comfortable wearing briefs as outerwear, even if that’s the intended look?
2) The sets are completely plain (checked in the boutique). While I am not a fan of logos, why spend £800 on something that looks almost identical to Skims for under £100? A subtle branding detail could help justify the price and enhance desirability.
I had a long-term client with strong luxury spending habits who would often consider purchases in this way:
If the brand isn’t recognizable, what’s the point? No one will know how much I paid for it?
3. Placement & Presentation
I viewed the collection at Selfridges, where Alaïa used to have its own dedicated space. Now, it’s been moved to a shared area with other brands—a shift that doesn’t seem aligned with its positioning.
If Alaïa wants to maintain image, it would make sense to either:
Keep a separate, well-maintained boutique space with a dedicated SA ensuring the pieces are steamed and beautifully presented. Accessories (like bags and shoes) could be cross-sold as natural upsells;
or Exit multi-brand retail spaces entirely if presentation standards can’t be upheld.
Seeing Alaïa garments on cheap plastic hangers or Givenchy-branded ones felt off-brand. Mixing it with other brands may dilute its image (I am not fan of dilute philosophy, but sometimes it has a value)—which is exactly what happened when the SA brought me a blouse from another brand.
I'll keep quiet that seeing a dress with hanger marks and snags was painful for me as a true fashion lover.
4. The bigger picture
Richemont’s focus remains heavily weighted toward jewelry, with fashion playing a much smaller role in its revenue. That being said, Alaïa has gained momentum in recent seasons.
According to the 2024FY group report (p.9), Le Teckel bag (bags are typically the highest-margin category) and La Ballerine ballet flats have been particularly popular.
This growing interest in accessories could be leveraged to boost clothing sales, especially since Pieter Mulier's designs are exceptionally well-crafted. However, execution matters—and the issues I highlighted, including the wearability and presentation issues, are barriers to converting that interest into actual sales.
A single-category focus is risky. Diversification—both within the brand (across different product categories) and within the group (across different sectors)—is key to long-term stability. Proven by Hermès.
5. Online shopping: The transparency issue
I did a quick online check of the items I tried on. Given the misleading (and most likely well-photoshopped) pictures, I suspect that these sheer garments have a high return rate example of the financial impact of returns here).
E-commerce can be misleading—particular product images fail to accurately convey fabric transparency.
Another issue is sizing—which I also explored with examples here. To bridge this gap in online shopping, I created 2Jour Stylist, a digital lookbook platform featuring unretouched try-ons to help shoppers make confident purchasing decisions.
For brands interested in a dedicated lookbook, please contact here.
